MOROCCAN WESTERN SAHARA
Mention you're off to the Western Sahara for your hols, and most people will look blank and ask "Why?"
Others develop a look of horror, with the accusation "Don't you realise there's a war going on?" The truth is it's an ongoing civil war between the Polisario, Saharawi locals who want independence, and the Moroccans who occupied the region after the Spanish left years ago. Realistically, since the UN became involved with an active international peace keeping force it's become a war of politics rather than military engagement. There is a problem in the far eastern side of the country with uncharted minefields next to the Algerian boarder, but few security risks in the rest of the country.
From a buggying perspective, you have deserted 10mile long beaches in the north, a number of huge flat salt pans to chose from, sunshine all year round and a constant 20-30 mph offshore wind that blows all day, every day – what more do you want! Most of the good buggying areas stretch down the coast and are more or less accessible with a rental car booked for 10 days to a fortnight from an agency in Agadir. One of the most attractive aspects of the area is that you don't need a 4x4 to get to the best venues, since for the most part they are right by the road. However distances are huge and it's a very long two or three day drive from Agadir to Dekhla way down south just off the Tropic of Cancer. One plus point – there are a number of places where you can just pull off the road, get the kit out and have a blast for a couple of hours to break the monotony of driving along what has to be
the world's most boring road.
There are some good but small venues all the way down the road between Laayoune and Dakarlar, but
most of the best are within striking distance of these two towns.
THE BEST OF MOROCCAN WESTERN SAHARA
Laayoune area
Sebkhat Oum Dba N27.32.2 W13.01.4 A huge salt pan some 15 miles long and 5 miles wide between
Laayoune and Tarfaya provides a rock hard surface and plenty of space to play in. It's still being worked at the southern end (watch out for small salt mines!) and is a bit lumpy in places, but
generally completely flat. The southern end is accessible by car but you'll want a 4x4 to go all the way round.
Sebkat Tah N27.43.2 W12.44.39 Once again just off the road, this 35 mile by 12 mile salt pan forms a
depression ten miles north of the Sebkhat Oum Dba. Access is probably easier via the eastern end
which is unfortunately miles from the road. It's a hassle to access, but well worth the effort.
Tarfaya Beach N27.57.19 W12.52.23 An absolutely huge, deserted beach maybe 20 miles long, just west of the town of Tarfaya with a couple of very large ship wrecks on the low water mark to add
atmosphere. The beach is bounded by small dunes to help clock up air time, if that's what you like.
Dakhla area
Glayb Al Gharday Just before you roll into Dakhla, the road crosses a number of large salt pans, the largest of which is the Glayb Al Gharday. Stretching some 5 miles to the sea and about 4 miles across, this has to be one of the best surfaces I have ever been on. Completely flat and rock hard, this pan catches the wind in all directions and there is no need for a 4x4 to get there. Dakhla has a couple of campsites and budget hotels, or a better option could be to camp on the flat itself.
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